Friday, September 28, 2012

West Marin restaurant: Saltwater

My good friend Tom invited me out to Inverness yesterday to stay over at one of the cottages on Tomales Bay and to have a celebratory "Getting Fired" dinner.  I said yes.  The cottage was lovely, quiet and peaceful and a great place to hang out.

Saltwater is a new restaurant in Inverness.  Previously an overpriced pizza joint, it is now focused on, what else, fish. The menu is small: several oysters, raw and cooked, several first courses (soups, salads, smoked fish, and more) and the main courses are mostly fish, although there is a roasted quail and a smoked pork belly.  It was a delicious meal.

We shared the two different cooked oyster preparations, one with spinach and breadcrumbs (Oysters Casino) and the other with caramelized shallots and brown butter. Both were perfectly cooked and we ate them all in about thirty seconds. Tom had the quail with roasted figs, I had the fresh salmon on top of a succotash of vegetables and topped with a radish salad.  Excellent.  We shared a bottle of Thomas Berridge Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley that was perfect with both our meals. We didn't have pizzas but they looked outstanding.

The force behind the new restaurant is Luc Chamberlin, a local guy with a lot of industry experience.  He has put his heart and soul and a lot of money into transforming the space into a cleanly streamlined place to get good food. The decor is simple and sophisticated, white finish on the shelves, uncluttered.   You can order anything to go, and he will even sell a bottle of wine to take away for $10 off the menu price.

Sit at the counter if you can.  It's quieter and easier to talk to your mate, shoulder to shoulder.  It's sometimes easier to snag a seat at the bar than at a table. The place gets very busy, so go early or late.  But go!  It would be nice to see this place succeed, it's what Inverness and the Point Reyes Station area needs, something new.

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